The Lost Coast The day had finally arrived to ride the Lost Coast. Immediately upon being stationed return in Northern California I traded in my BMW RT 1100 for a 2008 KLR 650. What better route for an inaugural ride? Subsequent to many years of hotel touring I was transitioning return to my pack it light, freeze at night mode of travel. The Usal Path and Lost Coast path conditions were an unknown. The winter months of 2008 had seen very many of rain on the North Coast near Eureka Californiaand my studies indicated that the roads should be impassable if wet.
Should the KLR be can conquer what the King's Section and Sinkyone Wilderness threw our method in late March? To hedge my bets I packed 3 motorcycle tie below straps that should likely double as tow straps. My riding partner for this travels should be a college roommate from 19 years ago. Glenn had called the day prior with a cryptic, I've bought something that shall handle anything the path shall throw at us. Cryptic messages are usually not ever good. Maybe the extra space the straps should take was non-pricey insurance.
Where we were going Triple A should fear to tread. Sunday's early morning beginning was delayed until 3:00 pm due to Easter commitments. The afternoon came and went. I received a call from Glenn that his new mystery mechanical system should not start. Certainly a dark harbinger of things to come.
The afternoon ticked by and 5:00 pm turned to 7:00 pm. Glenn limped into Rohnert Park, CA around 8:30 pm, cold, lost but armed with a hearty appetite and an equally hearty and upbeat attitude; definitely the kind of partner and attitude you need when venturing into the unknown. The spoke about mystery mechanical system came within the shape of a 1985 KLR 600! The $800. 00 museum piece was a steal until the hard starting bicycle continued to flood the aftermarket 3 stroke carburetor and killed the battery steal was the right term but only time should tell who the victim was. Ever resilient, Glenn fixed the challenge that Sunday and forged ahead from Sacramento to Sonoma County.
My mom was all too happy to feed the tired path warrior with a building cooked meal. We modified the play procedure that night and decided not to ride the Trinity Heritage Local Scenic Highway also known as Hwy 299 or 4 and the Bigfoot Scenic Byway Hwy 96 loop out of Eureka. The bicycles were prepped and ready despite little incident with my newly purchased mount. I realized I should not have procrastinated in purchasing a center stand. While filling the tires earlier within the day the bicycle fell over as I pushed on the stems with a bit too many vigor.
To KLR's credit, the new glass radiator shrouds withstood the tip over and the Bug as my daughter calls it came distant with only 3 minor scratches. The next morning we headed north on Hwy 101 within the early Northern California chill, the 3 extremes regarding the KLR spectrum thumping along in harmony. At 8:30am we decided to pull into Cloverdale and hold a quick bite at the regional McDonalds. An old timer took an interest in our travels and told us how he used to race his Harley Davidson against the British invasion of BSA's return in 1949 but lost to lighter, faster bicycles when it came to cross region racing. Over tea talk turned to younger days.
We shared our skills development within the Cavalry Glenn a pilot within the Space Cav, I a ground scout, and Don a sixteen year old Horse Cavalryman return in 1938. Soon subsequent to his horse cavalry days Don was prowling the Southern China Sea. His new ride was theUSS Snapper, a 1928 era sub that created it out of Manila Harbor prior to fall regarding the Philippines. He wished he should join us on our bicycle travels but his knee replacement was in a little days. Any adventure we should encounter paled to his depth charge experiences during the war.
We thanked him for his sacrifices and service to region as we headed northwest. The bicycles created quick work of Hwy 128 to Mendocino as we fell into a smooth pace through the vineyards and redwood trees. At Fort Bragg we attempted to retrieve a dirt route east towards Glenblair and return to 101 sequential to shake below our load plans and bikes. We were thwarted by dead ends and gatedaccess but rewarded by the lone lane dirt roads. Doubling return we proceed up Hwy two picking up the pace, energized by the crashing waves and redwoods.
Passing Rockport we scanned for Hwy 435 or Usal Path but were so enamored with this component of Hwy 101 that we were nearly in Leggett prior to we discovered we had missed our turn. Backtracking we located 431. If it wasn't for the fact that we knew it was at mile marker 90. 88 we not ever should have located it. The beginning spot looked like a private dirt drive.
How this used to be a stagecoach route is beyond me. They should have gone through multiple teams provided the steep hills and rough conditions. The views were stunning as we peered below on the Pacific. Accompanying the breathtaking scenery was a chance encounter with a bear cub ambling throughout the road. Startled by the Bug's growl he ran return to mama and we continued our journey.
The KLR weren't challenged by the roads and we thought the estimated 4 hrs to reach Shelter Cove was an erroneous estimate. We should soon learn seven hrs was barely enough. I also discovered that years of hoteling had taught me to over pack my Givi top case. First and only flaw of my KLR became evident when Glenn yelled for me to stop. Rolling below the hill was my Givi and 1/2 my KLR luggage rack! The tie below straps were pressed into service sooner than I had expected.
Soon we encountered first of many delays. The KLR's should not make it through the ponder soup, rear ends spinning out of manage and flopping on their sides. Glenn and I ported our gear when compulsory and then manhandled our mounts, pushing and cursing the machines through the muck. At the worse point, subsequent to we located a bypass to a seemingly impassable portion regarding the road, Mark from San Jose in a tricked out Jeep-the only other person encounter on the scenic roadway, destroyed the bypass for bicycles at fewest as his Jeep chewed up the ground. Bouncing off a tree he succeeded but erased any notions of turning back.
For better or worse we were committed. No distant than 200 yards below the Usal Path we were forced to unload the KLR's repeatedly and push our mounts as the rider paddled along a foot and 1/2 large path. A fall to right and the bicycles should disappear below the murky surface like the USS Snapper did to evade the Japanese warships seeking revenge. A fall to left and the KLR's should tumble below the cliff face to Pacific. Riding the bicycles throughout the narrow path was too risky as the path itself was muddy and the tires should possibly slip.
A little adrenaline filled heartbeats later, the bicycles were safely across, loaded and moving at speed. Usal Path may help KTM Adventures and BMW GS's within the hard seasons but within the winter months anything larger than a KLR should be difficult to navigate the numerous mud bogs. The bigger bicycles should be exhausting to manhandle through calf high mud. When we finally reached Usal Sea we were rewarded by pristine beaches. The ocean front was all but abandoned and the KLR's proved capable of crossing numerous streams as we explored the beaches.
The Bug loved the new ocean space but the KLR 600 began to display her warts. On the final stretch prior to reaching Shelter Cove the KLR 600 barely running on one regarding the steepest components regarding the route. Glenn rolled his lamb bones and sprinkled blood on the carburetor with no luck. Un-strapping one regarding the tie below straps from my Givi I hooked it to 600 and the Bug transformed to El Burro as I towed the 600 up the hill. A quick dance to motorcycle gods and the 600 fired up and we were Shelter Cove bound.
The night at Shelter Cove was one regarding the highest many pretty I have spent on the Northern California coast. The wind was totally absent and the stars shone brighter than the light within the decommissioned lighthouse. A couple of touches of Kentucky Bourbon created the night complete. A late beginning on day 3 due to Glenn locking his clothes within the dryer room and a non-responsive steal of a bicycle delayed us until 10:30. I began to sense who was the victim on this purchase and it wasn't the master mechanic in Sacramento who sold Glenn the bike.
Another quart of lamb blood and his bicycle roared to life. We entered King's Section Path and crossed into another world. The section had received higher than its average share of rainfall that winter. The fog shrouding the greenery reminded us regarding the rainforest of Costa Rica and Ecuador. Receiving a wrong turn we followed the rocky dead end path to Lightening Trailhead.
The rocks took a toll on our tires but the scenery was worth the price in rubber. The tight, twisty, uphill, climb on the method to Honeydew was one regarding the greatest components regarding the trip. It was only challenged by the route from Petrolia to Ferndale. This portion of path twisted along the shore and then paralleled the crashing waves. Glenn played the component of ranch paw as he herded an errant cow off the path and return into the field on his temperamental steed.
Anything shall be thrown your method on the Lost Coast. Leaving the ocean behind us, we quickly climbed 2,400 ft. to Bunker Hill and then descended into a pretty valley. As we crossed Bear River were it emptied into the ocean, Glenn pointed to switchbacks climbing the hill. I pumped my arm in response and rolled on the throttle.
Within the ensuing climb we became one with our machines to spot where it felt as if the bicycles disappeared and we were skiing through the picturesque Northern California scenery. The environment was a combine of Switzerland and Southern England, the narrow 3 lane roads lined with shrubs, trees, and cattle racing by. We were sad to look the Lost Coast disappear in our rear view mirrors but looked forward to exploring Humboldt Redwoods State Park, the Avenue regarding the Giants, and the Eel River. Unable to retrieve a camp ground in Eureka we headed to Fortuna were the KLR 600 died on First Street. Coaxing the bicycle to life Glenn met me at the RV park were we secured a log cabin for a pittance.
Cash well spent considering the rainfall that night. Subsequent to filling our belly's with our fair share of ale at the Eel River Brewery, Glenn filled his ego flirting with the very attractive female body builder bartender. We wanted sleep as the path began to take its toll. Tomorrow should be very trying for us both. The next morning the KLR was DOA but Glenn was loathe to admit it.
Subsequent to coaxing him into getting a U-Haul we doubled up on the Bug and created our method through Ferndale. We were already pushing 11:30 am so time was a factor as work loomed the next day. In route Glenn spotted an ATV and Tire shop. Tom, the owner and mechanic, took pity on us and gave us the keys to his truck and the KLR 600 received an special lease on life. In 3 hours we were rolling southern on Hwy 101 thanks to Tom and his prompt attention.
Consequently this was my fourth time below the Avenue regarding the Giants, I was amazed by the 40 miles of beauty. The coup de grace was when we received a free Drive thru Tree skills development by a fellow KLR rider. The little spot came 11 miles north of Laytonville. The KLR 600 gave up its ninth life and died on the west side of 101. Suspecting fuel starvation I created desperation sprint to Laytonville for gas.
False hope as the bicycle had pulled itself off of life support. A CHP officer radioed a tow truck which arrived at 6:30 pm and Glenn was on his own. Facing 35F weather and a 3 hr plus ride from Laytonville I raced south. 3 things helped me survive that trip; the Hotgrips on my KLR and singing every cadence at the top of my lungs. By 8:40 pm I was chewing warm chow on the objective while Glenn was writing an special chapter on motorcycling on the edge.
A day and a 1/2 later he created it return to Sacramento. A story greatest told over multiple cold beers. For pure diversity of terrain, vegetation, pet and path conditions nothing can beat the Lost Coast of California. Dual purpose riding milks the highest many good per mile than pretty many any bicycle I have ever ridden. Despite all the net noise regarding the fairing falling apart due to vibration and the new KLR consuming quarts of oil, it is basically has not happened with this bike.
Despite an operator induced tip over, the KLR fairing survived an encounter with a concrete parking block and subsequent to 2,000 miles the Bug has not consumed any oil. The KLR shall remain within the stable regardless of whatever kind bicycle returns along within the future. For pure versatility and bang for the buck fun, this bicycle cannot be beat.
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